Pet Info Packets :: Guinea Pigs

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Introduction:

Cavies (KAY-vees), more commonly known as guinea pigs, originated in South America. In the wild they live in burrows and forage in the grasses. They were originally used for food, and many still are in modern-day South America. Travelers took home some of these delightful animals and made them into pets. They have spread throughout the world since then, wiggling their way into peoples' hearts all along.

Cavies are rodents, although this has been debated much as the rabbit's classification has. However, they are not like a mouse or rat in that they have a much stouter body with small feet and legs. They also have bright eyes and small ears. Cavies do not have tails. They have twenty teeth total, including two lower and two upper incisors, molars, and premolars. See Guinea Lynx: Teeth for more information on cavy teeth. These grow continually, as with all rodents, and cavies must chew to keep them at the proper length.

Guinea pigs usually grow ten to fourteen inches long, although this is just a rough estimate and can vary from animal to animal. A healthy weight range for an adult cavy is between 2.5 and 3.5 pounds. Again, this depends on the animal. The typical lifespan of a cavy is five to eight years with proper care, although they have been known to live a few years beyond this typical age range. Please make sure you will be able to take care of your pets for this entire time, as there are already too many unwanted pets in shelters.

A good care page for beginners is Guinea Lynx: Healthy Cavy.

Will Cavies Be Right For Me?

Cavies can make great pets! They are cuddly, furry, and just downright cute. However, they are definitely not your typical "pocket pet." If you are looking for a pet for a child or a short-term commitment, this is not the pet for you. Cavies need to be taken care of by a responsible adult as their primary caregiver. Even if a child or teen says they will be committed and is the future vet type, it is the responsibility of the adult to make sure that the animals are properly taken care of. This is for several reasons:

Care is very extensive and can be time-consuming. See the care section for more details.

A teen will soon be off on his/her own, and may not be able to continue to care for the cavies. He or she may also become more active in school, extracurriculars, or with friends and may not have the time to care for the cavies later on.

A child should not be held responsible for the care of cavies any more than you would let him or her take care of a family dog or cat. Cavies are just as much or more work, and the child may also lose interest.

Therefore, please make sure that you are not getting your cavies for your children. Instead, get them for yourself or as family pets. They are very fun and will add hours of enjoyment as the years go on, but their well-being must come first. If this cannot be provided in your home, please consider looking into another pet that may better suit your needs.

Should I Get One or Two?

Cavies are very social animals, and need to be housed with another animal of their own species. Same-sex pairs are usually best. You may also have heard the myth that two male cavies do not get along. This is just not true. It is all based on personality, not necessarily gender. This is explained in detail on Cavy Spirit's Social Life Page. Reasons why, methods of introduction, and quarantine instructions are all included on the preceding link.

What About Rabbits, etc. and Cavies?

Never put a rabbit or another animal in the same housing environment as your cavies. The reasons for this are all outlined on Cavy Cages Rabbit Page. There is no reason to do so, and it may even lead to the death of one or both of your beloved pets.

Where Should I Get My Cavies?

Please do not buy your cavies from a breeder or from a pet store. These people are simply overpopulating the world with pets, and the vast majority of them do not care for the animals at all, just for the money they can generate. Though some breed to better the species it is best to find a homeless cavy as there are so many. See the breeding and pet store sections below.

If not from a breeder or from a pet store, where should I get my cavies? You may know that there are shelters for dogs and cats, but did you know that there are also shelters and rescues for cavies? There are many. In fact, even some dog and cat animal shelters occasionally rescue cavies.

There are many benefits of rescuing an animal. The money you pay usually goes directly into the shelter or rescue. The animal has most likely been screened by a qualified veterinarian. Most rescues have excellent advice on care and offer a home if you are unable to take care of your pet for any reason after adoption. Shelters also screen the potential owners, making sure that they are ready to own cavies. For more information and to see where you can adopt, please go to the Cavy Rescue site. If you are looking for cavies, good sites to go to are Petfinder and GPAN (Guinea Pig Adoption Network). Do a google search for "cavy rescue your area", "guinea pig rescue your area", "shelter your area", etc. You can also look in the yellow pages for animal shelters and rescues. Don�t give up! You'll find cavies soon enough, and you will be saving their lives. Some dedicated cavy owners have traveled hundreds of miles to get their precious cavies. Some have waited months for the cavy they're looking for to come along. If you are willing to wait, the perfect pigs will come.

Breeding:

Think you want to breed? Please do not contribute to the pet overpopulation problem. Even if it's just for yourself, if you have the room you should adopt homeless cavies instead. Save a life or a few, don't condemn more helpless cavies. Please read Cavy Spirit Breeding before you proceed. Be responsible.

If an accidental pregnancy has occured, there is ample information on the entire process here. Please make sure that you either keep the offspring or find great homes for them, in pairs and with proper care as described here and at the linked websites. The cavies (and myself) will thank you!

Pet Stores:

Pet stores generally give out bad advice, sell their animals as nothing more than stock, obtain their pets from breeders, and usually sell items to their customers that are not needed or are inappropriate. Please see Cavy Spirit Pet Stores. We've all made mistakes, but we can also learn from them.

Housing:

Cavies should be housed with adequate space in their living environment. For guidelines on square footage of cages, please see Cavy Cages. For directions on how to make your own custom cage, please see Cavy Cages Directions. The cages on the site are made out of organizational shelving cubes and coroplast, like corrugated cardboard but plastic. These are called "C & C" cages (Cubes & Coroplast cages). These materials are cheap and generally easy to find. If you're having trouble finding coroplast, try looking through your phone book or on the internet for sign shops. If you still can't find cubes, coroplast, or something else you need, try visiting Cavy Cages Directory.

For the minimum of a 2 grid x 4 grid cage, you will need one package of cubes and one 4-foot by 8-foot sheet of coroplast. On average, this cage will cost you $30-$40. Compare the price to the typical pet store cage of over $100! You get about 10.5 square feet for dramatically less than the average 3 to 4 square feet pet store cages. What a deal!

These cages are easily customizable to fit any living space. Photos of various cage setups can be found at the Cavy Cages Gallery.

Cage Location:

Please see Cavy Cages Location for information on placing a cage in your home. Look at this page before building a cage!

Cage Cleaning:

C & C cages are much easier to clean than the typical cage you would find at a pet store. For different methods of cleaning, please see Cavy Cages Cleaning. Experiment with different methods to see which works the best for you.

Bedding:

All cages need bedding, but there are so many kinds! Which to choose? First off, there are toxic beddings:

Cedar: Causes Upper Respiratory Infections (URIs) because of the harmful oils and phenols in the wood.

Pine: Also believed to cause URIs for the same reasons as cedar, but kiln-dried pine which has been dried via a kiln--meaning there is supposedly little to no scent left--is believed by some to be safe.

Please do not use cedar, and try not to use pine if you have other options available. Remember also that cavies' noses are much more sensitive than ours, so any odors that you are able to detect are stronger to them. Pine may smell nice once in a while, but you'd get sick of smelling it all the time. Please be responsible.

So what are safe beddings, you may ask? Safe beddings include aspen, polar fleece, towels, and paper beddings. Great beddings are as follows:

Aspen: Relatively cheap to obtain and easy to find. It is rather absorbent. Make sure the bedding is not too dusty or that there are not too many sharp, small pieces that could potentially harm your cavies.

Polar fleece: Absorbent, usually used in combination with newspapers or towels underneath for better absorption. Soft and clean-looking. Must be changed daily in most cases, which means you must have several changes available for exchange throughout the week. Cost-effective as it means you won't need to buy bedding after the material is bought. The only expense for maintenance is for water and detergent. Can be beneficial for allergic owners.

Towels: Cost-effective, absorbent, usually used in combination with newspaper. You will need to change towels daily in most cases. Can be beneficial to allergic owners.

Paper beddings: CareFresh or similar products fall into this category. Highly absorbent, very little dust, biodegradable. Soft on cavies'feet. This bedding can get expensive, though it is probably the best on the market.

There are also beddings such as corn cob, wood and paper pellets, hay, straw, and many more. These are not recommended for various reasons. Some of these are as follows:

Corn Cob: Hard on cavies' feet, not very absorbent, molds easily. Please do not use this bedding.

Wood pellets: Hard on cavies' feet and heavy when wet. Check to see what is in them before using. If you are not sure, contact the manufacturer. If there is any cedar or pine contained in them, please do not use the pellets. These have worked for some but others don't like them as much.

Hay: Must be changed daily or even more frequently. Molds when wet, and the cavies may try to eat it. Not very absorbent, but it is reportedly enjoyed by cavies. Make sure the hay is not too stalky as this can cause injuries. You want a nice, soft hay, with little dust.

Straw: Stalky and can cause injuries. Not very absorbent and is usually dusty. Not a good bedding choice.

For more information on bedding choices, please see Guinea Lynx Bedding or Cavy Cages Bedding.

Toys And Fun:

Cavies love to have interesting playthings as well as creative places to hide. There are a variety of small animal items on the market, but which to choose? This page should help you in your quest for guinea pig happiness! There are so many simple things that cavies enjoy. You can cut a hole in an ice cream bucket for an easy house, or cut two for a tunnel! Just make sure that the plastic is not too sharp. Bend a grid cube (What's a cube?) 90 degrees, and slip a stretchy fabric book cover over for a quick, easy, and cheap tunnel. You can also weave hay through the holes in the tunnel for a guaranteed hit!

Cavy cozies and other toys are always welcome to a cavy. More crafts can be found at the Guinea Pig Fun crafts section. Playtime ideas can be found at Guinea Pig Fun (aka Cavy Fun). Just experiment with different items until you find what the cavies like!

Floor Time:

Even cavies need play time! Cavies should be outside of their cage once in a while. It is preferred to have floor time daily, but this is flexible if you have a larger cage than needed. For more information about floor time, please see Cavy Cages Floor Time

Pelleted Feed:

Cavies need a good pelleted food in their diet. The only food known to be up to specifications is Oxbow's. For cavies under a year of age, feed Oxbow Cavy Performance alfalfa-based feed. For cavies over one year of age, feed Oxbow Cavy Cuisine timothy-based feed. These can be found at feed stores, look online or in the yellow pages for one near you. Pet stores sometimes stock them, but pet stores aren't always the best places to support (Cavy Cages Pet Stores). You can also find the whole line of Oxbow products at Oxbow Hay. Look for online stores that stock Oxbow feeds as well if you can't find a store in your area. See Guinea Lynx: Pellets for more information.

Update: Kleenama is putting out a new line of cavy feeds that follow the guidelines.

What should pelleted food be served in? Try to find a bowl or dish that is heavy enough so it can't be tipped over. There are some dog/cat dishes that are "spill-proof." These are generally larger at the bottom than they are at the top, so as to prevent any food from spilling. Try to find a metal or ceramic dish, as they will last for a long time and are generally dishwasher-safe. They also will not harbor bacteria that could threaten the health of the cavies.

Food should be changed daily, and cavies normally eat from 1/8 to 1/4 of a cup of pellets daily. Try to figure out how much food your guinea pigs eat and measure food in accordingly, so as not to waste more than necessary. Do not withold food. If a cavy seems to be a little on the heavy side, chances are s/he simply needs a bit more exercise. This can be provided by making a larger cage, providing stimulation, and through floor time. If you believe there is a serious problem, talk to your veterinarian before witholding pellets. Pellets also provide essential vitamins, which is why taking them away can be a problem. Some people do completely take away pellets, but this is only for the extremely cautious and experienced cavy owners. It is very contreversial and difficult to give cavies all the essential nutrients this way. Please look through the Guinea Lynx forums before attempting such a diet of fresh foods, hay, and water.

Hay:

Hay is a vital part of any guinea pig's diet. It provides fiber, wears down teeth, and promotes health. Cavies should always have an unlimited supply of fresh, green grass hay to graze from. Timothy or another grass hay is best for adult cavies, and alfalfa or an alfalfa-timothy/grass hay mix is recommended for young cavies (younger than 6 months old). Please see Cavy Cages Hay and Guinea Lynx Hay for more information.

An excellent source of hay can be found at Kleenmama's Hayloft. This site caters to small pets, and provides fresh hay straight from Washington. It saves you lots of money, time, and gas as well as eliminating pet store support. What a great deal! She is also very friendly to work with and donates some of her hay to cavy rescues through the auctions at the Guinea Lynx forums. Another source of hay that is good is Sweet Meadow Farm. Oxbow also sells good-quality hay, though most people prefer Kleenmama's or Sweet Meadow Farms' hays to theirs. Oxbow's hay is generally more stalky.

Water:

Of course, cavies need a constant supply of fresh, clean water. This should be changed daily and the bottles should be cleaned weekly with a brush. If soap is used, be sure to thoroughly rinse out any trace of soap left behind. Some people use filtered or bottled water, which I recommend as it is known that most impurities are out of the water. Tap water is fine, however. It just isn't known if the chemicals will affect these small animals adversely or not.

The best way to offer water to a guinea pig is in a small animal water bottle. Get one with a metal tube and ball, not the glass that you may see. Curious guinea pigs may try to chew the tubing. If it is glass, this may cut their mouths and cause further complications. Metal will not.

Now, the question is: what size of bottle is best? A 16-oz bottle is usually sufficient for two cavies. Add bottles as you see fit. However, try not to get a bottle that is too much larger than 16 oz because as the size of the bottle goes up, the size of the tube and ball also increases. This may cause problems for some cavies. It is best just to get more bottles of the same size. Since water should be changed daily, this should help ensure that the water does not sit in the bottles for too long at a time as well. If it does, harmful bacteria can grow. This can threaten the health of the guinea pigs. A rule of thumb: if you wouldn't drink it, then your cavies shouldn't be either.

Fresh Food:

Cavies need vitamin C daily because, like us, they are one of the few animals that cannot manufacture it on their own. Guinea pigs are herbivores, and love their fresh vegetables, which also provide this vital vitamin C. However, please be sure not to feed overly much per day. This can lead to deadly diarrhea problems. Although it is difficult, and some say nearly impossible, to overdose on vitamin C, the water in the vegetables can cause very runny stools. As a general rule, feed about one cup of fresh veggies daily per pig. A little over or under is just fine. Excess of vitamin A or D can be disastrous as well. And, as always, variety and moderation are key! Pigs don't like to be fed the same foods every day, and you'll quickly learn their favorite foods as they pick them out right away! Also, keep in mind that you should not feed any cooked or processed foods to your cavies as they may have lost their vitamin content or may have had preservatives and/or coloring added. Also, check the Guinea Lynx Nutrition guide for more information on Calcium : Phosphorus ratios, as it plays a crucial role in the health of your guinea pigs. Cruciferous veggies like cabbage should not be fed too often because they may cause gas and/or bloating. High oxalic acid can also be a problem.

Some of the fresh veggies you can feed cavies are:

Red bell peppers*
Green bell peppers*
Tomatoes
Cilantro
Parsley*
Romaine lettuce
Turnip greens*
Turnips
Purslane (!)
Beets
Asparagus
Green beans
Celery (chop finely to prevent choking on the strings)
Swiss chard
White corn
Chinese Cabbage (Pok-Choi)
Cauliflower
Mustard greens*
Squash
Broccoli*
Dandelion greens
Baby carrots (feed sparingly, one small carrot per pig every other day is acceptable)
Spinach (!)*
Alfalfa sprouts
Collards
Watercress
Kohlrabi*
Cucumber
Endive
Brussels sprouts*
Kale*

* =High vitamin C content (at or above 60 mg per 100 g)

(!)=Feed sparingly due to high oxalic acid content (at or above 0.6 g per 100 g)

Fresh fruits can also be fed, but do so sparingly because of the high sugar content. Be careful of fruits that are acidic, such as lemons, apples, and oranges, because some cavies are very sensitive to it and may get sores from eating these foods. Be sure to remove all pits, cores, and/or large seeds where applicable so they cavies do not choke or shatter the pits and cut their mouths.

Some fresh fruits that guinea pigs can have are:

Tangerines*
Oranges*
Lime
Kiwi*
Bananas
Apples
Blueberries
Strawberries*
Raspberries
Pears
Plums
Mangoes
Melon (honeydew, watermelon, cantaloupe*)
Papaya*
Cherries
Nectarines
Pineapple
Grapes
Apricots
Lemon*
Grapefruit*
Blackberries
Peaches

* =High vitamin C content (at or above 30 mg per 100 g)

Foods to avoid:

Nuts or seeds; they have lots of fat and may be a choking hazard to your pet.
Meat and dairy; guinea pigs are herbivores.
Commercial treats, drops, etc. These are usually tailored to please the eye of the human, and not for the pet. Fresh fruit is great as a treat and actually may be more welcomed than commercial treats.

Supplements:

Supplements for vitamin C may be given, but do not use the liquid drops you can find in stores. Adding these to a cavy's water does not ensure that he or she is getting the proper amount of vitamin C. The vitamin deteriorates very quickly in the water. It also makes the water taste funny and the taste may deter the cavy from drinking. This may lead to dehydration as well as lack of vitamin C. If you must supplement, please talk to a qualified veterinarian.

Grooming:

Cavies, like all animals, need to be groomed regularly in order to stay healthy. Please see Guinea Lynx: Grooming for more information on how to keep your cavies healthy and looking great.

Weighing:

Cavies should be weighed often, preferably daily or weekly. A record of each cavy's weight over time should be written down. Printable charts for recording this information can be found here. This helps ensure their health. If a cavy is sick, regular weighings may help with the early detection of illness. Since guinea pigs are so clever at hiding illness as well, this can save a cavy's life if properly monitored. All you need is a small kitchen scale, or another scale that measures in ounces up to at least four or five pounds. It should not be too expensive, and it is a great investment for the health of your guinea pigs.

Medical Info:

For any medical information, the best source for cavies is Guinea Lynx. If you suspect something is very wrong, please get into the vet's office right away. Illnesses must be treated as soon as you notice there is something wrong. Cavies are very good at hiding their sickness. By the time symptoms show, the cavy may have been sick for a while already.

The Cavy Health Record Book can be extremely helpful as well.

How can someone tell if a particular veterinarian knows their stuff about cavies? That is precisely what this page was made for: to help you decide on a vet for your beloved pets. It is important to know that, if needed, you and your cavies have access to a qualified veterinarian. Even if the cavies are healthy, it is a good idea to keep the vet's phone number and address handy in case of an emergency. Yearly wellness check-ups are also advised. These can prevent internal illness that may have gone unnoticed otherwise. It also offers peace of mind for the pigs and you!