Pet Info Packets :: Hamsters

Hamster - (hăm′stər)

n.

A small Eurasian rodent of the subfamily Cricetinae, especially Mesocricetus auratus (the Syrian hamster), having large cheek pouches and a short tail and often kept as a pet or used in laboratory research. The name originates from the Old Middle German word 'hamstern' which means 'to hoard'.

Types and Varieties of Hamsters:

The most common hamster is the Syrian, which is sometimes called the "teddy bear" hamster, or a variety of other names, depending on the color (ie: Panda bear hamster, Calico hamster, Dalmation hamster, etc.) At one time they were also called "Golden hamsters", but today, that is used to describe a Syrian hamster of a specific coloring. Syrians come in all sorts of colors, and all sorts of varieties. There are Long-haired, or 'fancy' hamsters, short haired, hairless, and "satin" haired hamsters.

There are also Dwarf hamsters, which include Campbell's Russian Dwarves, Chinese hamsters, Siberian, and Roborovski's. Dwarf hamsters were first discovered in Russia, and a colony was taken into captivity, and successfully bred. Syrian hamsters weren't as easy, however, as only 12 of them were taken into capitivity in Syria in 1908, and only 3 of the original 12 survived, and virtually all Syrian hamsters today are descendants of these 3 original hamsters.

The Basics:

Housing -

Hamsters are very adaptable to new surroundings, so fortunately, there are a few ways they can be housed. Syrian hamsters are not social animals at all, and even if they appear to get along at first, this will inevitably lead to fighting, and certain injury and possible death! They should never ever be housed together beyond 5 weeks of age. Dwarves are a bit more social, and can be housed together if they are acclimated to each other at an early age (ie: 2 same sex siblings, etc.) Opposite sex siblings should never be housed together beyond 5 weeks of age, because inbreeding will occur, and the pups can subsequently be born with a host of different birth defects and illnesses.

The first type of housing, and most basic, is the glass aquarium cage. A 10 gallon tank with a secure fitting screened lid is suitable for 1 Syrian hamster, or 2 dwarves. Glass aquarium cages are good because they are easily cleaned, and provide a great view for the owner to watch their pets at mealtimes and play. Also, because of the height, and the slippery sides, it is more difficult for the hamster to escape, and believe me, I have seen even the clumsiest of hamsters make it almost all the way to the top by sheer climbing skills, so make sure that a mesh or screen top, that fits securely, or is weighted down is placed on top. The negative to using a glass aquarium cage is of course, the ventilation is not as good as other types, but it is still adequate. This is good in the colder months, because the chance of a draft is therefore lower than in other types of housing. Adversely, in the warmer months, it is important to keep the hamster in a cooler, darker place, as they can get heat stroke easily.

Next, we have the wire cages that are found at most pet stores. These are usually equipped with a plastic bottom (don't get one with a wire bottom), and wire on the top half of the cage. Lots of owners do like these types of cages, because hamsters do enjoy climbing, and it is fun to watch them at play. The possibility of escape is higher in these cages, especially with young pups, or with dwarf hamsters. I personally switched to glass cages after I had my first escape in the wire cage. Again, wire cages are easily cleaned, because the top usually comes with clips that can be opened and closed for easy removal. One major con that lots of hamster owners face with wire cages is the possibility of wire chewing, which is not only dangerous for the hamster, but also very loud and bothersome for the owner. Even when given adequate biscuits and toys and twigs for chewing, some hamsters will still insist on chewing on the bars. This can lead to malformation of the teeth, mouth injuries, and even brain damage. As with all cages, the pros and cons to each must be thouroughly weighed out before deciding on which cage to use.

Third on the list, we have the very popular Habitrail© or Crittertrail© cages that are sold in virtually every pet store. These cages are made entirely of plastic most of the time, and come with all sorts of different tubes, sleeping/nesting areas, play areas, and petting zones. Sometimes, these have a very short wire top for extra ventilation as well. These cages are wildly popular, because of the array of different colors they come in, as well as for all of the different features each one has.

The plastic is mostly see-through, which can provide a great opportunity for you to watch your hamster at play and at sleep. These cages are the most difficult to clean, and they come apart in many different sections, which can be confusing to put back together at times. It is very difficult to clean inside each and every tube, but if you have the time to devote to a weekly thourough cleaning of each piece, this may be the option for you.

These cages also usually come with a wheel that attaches inside the cage somehwere, so buying a separate wheel is not always necessary, same with the water bottle. These cages are a bit more pricier than the other varieties listed. Also, in recent times, I have heard of more than one instance where a hamster found a crack or a weak spot in the plastic in one of these cages, and began to slowly work at chewing a good sized hole for escape. Again, you should base your decision as to whether or not you will use this type of cage on your personal schedule, and your space situation in the area the cage will go. Official Habitrail website.

Last, we have the bin set up. This will require some work on your part, as you will have to drill holes on the sides for hanging the water bottle, as well as for ventilation on the lid. Some people use bins so deep that they don't feel the need for a lid, but I always advise against this because even if the hamster may not be able to escape, there is always the chance that another family pet or youngster will be able to get to the cage and harm the hamster inside. This model is also easily cleaned, but these bins are so thick that even if you buy a "clear" bin, it is still virtually impossible to see your hamster inside unless you are standing over the bin. These can be good because these bins (or tucker totes as they are sometimes called) are fairly inexpensive, and usually very roomy.

Whichever habitat you decide is suitable for you and your hamster's needs, there are 6 main constants that you will need to have in ANY set up... which brings us to our next section..

Bedding & Accessories -

Bedding:

Your hamster will need to have a safe, absorbant layer of bedding in the bottom of the cage. While there are many different types of bedding or litter sold in stores, a few of them are very unsafe to use with any small animal, including hamsters! The 4 types of bedding that should NEVER be used are:

1.) Pine Bedding - These soft wood shavings smell nice, but what makes them smell nice are aromatic oils called "phenols", which can cause respiratory and liver complications, as well as cause severe allergic reactions. These reactions can cause severe illness, and even death. It is so simple to choose a safe bedding for your hamster, so there is no reason why pine should ever have to be considered as an option.

2.) Cedar Bedding - For the same reasons as pine bedding, cedar bedding should also never be used. This is even more aromatic than pine, and is almost certain to cause serious health problems for your hamster.

3.) Corn Cob Bedding - This bedding is often the cheapest, and it is labeled on the package as "natural" and "bio-degradable". Not only is this bedding oftentimes very dusty, which can cause respiratory problems for your hamster, but corn cob bedding has been known to grow mold and fungus very quickly (within 24 hours sometimes), and most common is the Aspergillis fungus, sometimes known as "black mold". This fungus can cause pneumonia, other respiratory infections, as well as bladder, urinary and kidney infections in your hamster. More information on aspergillis fungus.

4.) Cat Litter or any other litter that contains clay - Sometimes cat litter bedding contains dangerous chemicals that are toxic to your hamster, but more importantly, if this clay litter is consumed, it is impossible for the hamster's digestive system to break it down, which can cause blockage, which will result in death. This litter is also very dusty, and can contribute to respiratory problems.

Safe Hamster Beddings - There are many different kinds of safe bedding to use for hamsters, but the most common, and often least expensive bedding to use is Aspen wood shavings. These are also a soft wood, but unlike pine and cedar shavings, aspen shavings contain no dangerous phenols, so they can safely be used as an absorbant, and natural bedding. Be sure to put a layer on the bottom of the cage at least 2-3 inches deep, as your hamster will dig and burrow, and hide food within the bedding.

Also safe and good to use is Carefresh© brand bedding/litter. This is made from recycled soft wood pulp. It is softer than wood shavings, and much more absorbant. This bedding is safely broken down and passed in case your hamster accidentally consumes this bedding. Carefresh also comes in Carefresh Ultra, which is bleached white, and said to be more absorbant and better at neutralizing odors from urine and feces. This is the type of bedding I personally use, and my hamsters seem to prefer this type to any other. This bedding also is good for keeping the hamster's coat clean, as it will absorb any excess oils that attract dirt. When I am low on money, I will buy a big bag of Aspen shavings, and a small bag of Carefresh bedding, and mix 2 handfuls of Carefresh in with the wood shavings, and I find that hamsters will run around and gather the pieces of Carefresh for use in their nesting areas.

Next you have Yesterday's News© or other brand pelleted paper litter. This is made from recycled paper, and packed into pellet form. It is not as soft as carefresh or wood shavings, but this litter is highly absorbant, and leaves the cage virtually odor-free. I have found that hamsters do not prefer to sleep on this litter, but it is an excellent litter to use in litter pans, and in the corners of the cage where the hamster is likely to urinate and defecate. The website for Yesterday's News.

Another popular bedding is Cell-Sorb©. This bedding is made from recycled paper, and has an ammonia absorbing additive called gypsum. This bedding is also very eco friendly, and safe for your pets. This bedding has a unique "trickle down" effect, making most of the feces sink to the bottom of the cage where it will have no contact with your hamster. The downside to this product, as with Yesterday's News, is that it is not as soft as Carefresh or wood shavings, and it is kind of pricey. The website for Cell-Sorb.

Bedding should be fully changed at least once every 10 days, with the soiled bedding scooped out and replaced with fresh bedding on a daily basis. Failure to do so can result in mold growing in your hamster's urine, bad smells, illnesses such as wet tail in Syrians, and all around unpleasant conditions. Make sure that when you change your hamster's bedding, you also clean out and sterilize your hamster's accessories, toys, and cage at least monthly, or whenever they get soiled. Use a mild soap and hot water, or a very diluted bleach/water solution (one part bleach to 10 parts water) to disinfect and clean the cage and all accessories, including the water bottle. Always make sure that everything is thoroughly rinsed before allowing your hamster to come into contact with it again.

Accessories:

The Water Bottle - Hamsters should be given unlimited access to fresh, clean drinking water daily. Hamsters will consume about a tablespoon of water each day, a little more or a little less depending on the individual hamster. So for drinking water, it is highly recommended that you use a glass or plastic "sipper" tube, that hangs by a wire either inside, or outside (in most wire cages) of the cage.

Having the water bottle on the outside can prevent the hamster from chewing the water bottle. Be sure that this water is replaced daily, and that the ball bearing inside the sipper tube is clear and free from any obstructions. Using a water dish is never suitable, because the water can be easily contaminated with urine or feces, tipped over by the hamster causing the bedding to get soaked, or result in a very wet, unhappy, and cold hamster. Also, more seriously, younger and smaller hamsters can run the risk of drowning in the water dish, so its much easier and safer to use a sipper tube for drinking purposes.

Some water bottles are "gravity" style, that have a small opening at the bottom, and when the hamster licks this opening, the water will drip out. However, some hamsters have more trouble finding the water bottle, especially younger pups. If you do decide to use this kind of bottle, be sure that your hamster has found this bottle, and can use it properly. Lots of the plastic tube cages come with these bottles in them already, so replacing them with a different bottle is not necessary, as long as your hamster can use it properly. For aquariums you will likely need a water bottle guard (holds and protects the water bottle from chewing inside the aquarium) for your water bottle.

The Wheel - Hamsters are very active little creatures, who enjoy plenty of exercise, especially at night. Syrians are more nocturnal than dwarves, so it is not uncommon to see your dwarf awake and running on his wheel for a while during the daytime, whereas it is less common to see a Syrian exercising during the day. It was once estimated that hamsters run on an average up to 2 miles per evening, with one hamster being recorded as running 5 miles in one night. So it is very important to provide a wheel at all times for exercise.

Wheels come in all different types of sizes and styles, but it is important to buy a solid wheel, rather than a runged wheel, because the rungs on the wheel can cause injury to the feet and legs if they should get caught in the wheel while spinning. Use a smaller sized wheel for dwarf hamsters, and a larger one, at least 6 inches, for Syrian hamsters. They should not be hunched over at all while they are running, and should be able to stand up straight with their head forward all the while. This is by far the most treasured and loved "toy" of hamsters, so it is important to always provide one. It is not a luxury, but a necessity for a happy hamster! Here is a good site to find hamster wheels.

The Food Dish - Hamsters should always have a readily accessible, plentiful supply of food. This food is best kept in a ceramic, chew and spill-proof bowl or container. Many pet stores carry inexpensive, hard plastic food dishes as well. There really is no difference in these, save for that the ceramic types are usually sturdier and harder for the hamster to tip over.

There are also "gravity" feeders, that clip to the outside of the cage, and dispense the food as the hamster eats it. These are good because the hamster cannot spill, nor can they soil the food inside. The down side to these feeders is that they give the hamster less freedom to choose which seeds, grains, and nuts they prefer. But if you feel that your hamster is becoming too picky, these may be a good option.

Usually, as far as food dishes go, its best to stay simple, and choose a basic dish, as I would say this is the least important item in the cage, as some hamster owners like to cater to the hamster's natural desire to forage, and sprinkle the food around the cage in small amounts. I personally do not like this method, because the food can be soiled by the hamster. Hamsters will make a mess with the food in dishes however, often sitting in the bowl and kicking and digging in the food, which is amusing to watch. Again, this is a matter of preference for the owner, and for the hamster.

The Hamster House - Hamsters need a place where they can sleep and hide in relative privacy and security. Most hamsters will make a few nests throughout the cage, as they like to move their nests around quite a bit, but if the hamster has a nice, secure "house" to nest in, they usually favor this spot, and are less likely to sleep in other places. Hamsters are naturally prey animals, and in the wild, they will dig burrows into the ground to sleep in, so they have a natural instinct for wanting to hide when they sleep. So this is why providing a safe nesting spot or "house" is imperative.

There are many different types of houses available for hamsters and other small rodents. You can also build your hamster it's own house out of simple household materials, such as empty tissue boxes, or clean empty milk containers that are cut in half. I don't favor these options, as they are often soiled, and chewed up, which makes for a lot of replacing. Its much easier to just spend a few dollars to buy one at the pet store. There are basic plastic houses, which pretty much are self explanatory. They usually contain a sleeping area, and a small "shelf" for putting treats on. You have many wooden varieties, as well as Roll-a-Nests©, which are made out of grass and straw. I have heard rare reports about hamster getting cut on sharp pieces of the Roll-a-Nests, so I don't recommend these personally. In the case of houses, feel free to pick one out in colors that you like (as hamsters can only see black and white), and get decorative.

Make sure that house is big enough for the type of hamster that you have, as obviously, Syrian hamsters will need bigger houses than dwarves. Make sure that you provide clean, unscented, white toilet paper or soft tissue for the hamster to rip up and shred into a nest. Avoid using any colored papers, as the ink can be eaten and can sometimes be toxic to the hamster. Avoid any commercial "fluffy" type bedding, as the hamster can consume this, and get intestinal blockage, or even choke on it, as this cannot be safely passed through the digestive system. Even if the package says it is safe, that does not mean that it is safe for every hamster!

Toys - You always want to make sure that your hamster has something other than his/her wheel to amuse herself with. There is virtually no limit as to what your hamster will find amusing, and there are hundreds of different toys and accessories at pet stores, including: Stairs and "jungle gyms" for climbing, round blocks that can be rolled around that sometimes have bells inside, wooden chew sticks or soft wood blocks for gnawing and climbing on, tubes and tunnels for hiding and digging, hammocks for napping or climbing in, and most commonly, exercise balls that allow the hamster play time outside the cage, as well as amusement for you to watch them play.

Make sure that you always supervise the hamster while they are in there exercise balls. Never leave your hamster unattended while they are outside the cage, as they could roll down stairs, get stuck in a spot where they cannot move, or even be bothered or harmed by other pets or small children. Do not allow your hamster to spend more than 45 minutes at a time in these balls, as they can get stressed out from being away from their personal space in an unfamilar territory, or they can get easily tired from running around, or get hungry or thirsty.

In addition to these toys that you can purchase at pet stores, you can also give your hamster cardboard tubes from paper towel or toilet paper rolls. They will love to run around and hide and even chew these tubes. You can also collect several tubes and arrange them in mazes for the hamster to run around in. Hamsters also will like to play in empty tissue boxes, empty paper bags, and any other clean, safe containers. You can also offer clean, trimmed, soft fruit wood twigs for your hamster to gnaw (make sure it is one of the fruit woods that isn't poisonous).

Make sure that you never offer your hamster any toys that contain insafe dyes or inks, chemicals, or toxic materials. Also take care to avoid anything that will bear sharp edges or points when chewed, and if your hamster does chew on something that creates sharp edges, throw it out, and replace it with a new one. Be creative, as you will be surprised at what your hamster will do with ordinary objects! Here are some appropriate hamster toys.

Food & Appropriate Snacks -

Your hamster is a very robust little animal, with dwarves eating just as much as syrians, which usually equals about a tablespoon of food a day. Some hamsters will eat more or less, depending on size and metabolism. Your hamster will appear to eat more than he or she actually does, because of the tendency to hoard. A good rule of thumb is to offer a small handful daily, discarding the left over food from the day before, because your hamster could have sat in his/her food bowl and soiled the leftover food. Your hamster should have the following foods offered to them daily:

A high quality dry mix - Most commercially prepared hamster foods contain a high amount of corn, sunflower seeds, and other "self heating" foods (meaning that they provide a lot of calories and starches) like peas and wheat middlings. While these aren't necessarily bad for the hamster, they are not ideal to make up the majority of the diet. A high quality (which is usually a bit more expensive) diet is definitely the way to go, as it will provide optimum nutrition. The ideal food mix will contain a great big variety of seeds, nuts, grains, vegetables, protein, and fruits. Look at the package, and read the ingredients. If extra sugar, or high amounts of corn and alfalfa pellets and sunflower seeds are added, it is probably not a good choice. Some good choices for food mixes, which are available at most pet stores are:

Healthy Handfuls - Coming soon.

Ecotrition - A good blend based with a great balance of vegetables, fruits, nuts, seeds, vitamins, minerals and Insta-Grain©, a unique high fiber ingredient which duplicates the nutritional composition of grains hamsters & gerbils eat in the wild. This blend is a bit pricier than most, but it is well worth it, as it has a low amount of corn and sunflower seeds, and the hamsters really seem to like this brand.

Brown's Fruit Bites Banquet - This brand is mine (and my hamster's) personal favorite, as it is loaded with fruity shapes that are packed with all of the nutritonal needs of your hamster, and it actually smells like bananans and other good fruits. This also contains little fruit and vegetable "gummies" that my hamsters go nuts for, without any added sugar. In addition, it has a full range of seeds, nuts, grains and grasses, with a very low amount of corn and sunflower seeds. This food is like food and a treat in one! So far, the only store that I have come across which carries this brand is PetSmart. FM Brown's Fruit Bites Banquet and other foods can be found at PetSmart.

Nutriphase Gold Hamster and Gerbil Diet - This diet is another brand that offers complete nutrition for hamsters and gerbils. It is alos low on corn and sunflower seeds, and is a bit pricier, but it is a very high quality. This brand was recommended to me by my vet, so I am sure it fulfills its claims about complete nutrition. Again, the only store I have seen this brand offered is at PetSmart. Nutriphase Gold Hamster and Gerbil Diet and other foods can be found at PetSmart.

Fresh foods - Once you have selected a dry food mix it is imperative that you offer your hamster a small amount of greens or vegetables daily. Small amounts of fruit should be given every other day or every 3 days, as they contain natural sugar. A lot of food mixes offer dehydrated carrots and other vegetables in the mix, but it is essential to feed fresh foods daily, because it helps your hamster's digestive system, and helps keep your hamster hydrated. There are many different kinds of fruits/vegetables/greens to feed your hamster, and I will list some of the more common ones, but first, there are a few fruits/vegetables/greens that should NEVER be fed to your hamster, and they are:

Tomatoes, potatoe "eyes" (the green stuff that grows on potatoes), any kind of citrus fruit, garlic, raw kidney beans, apple seeds, grape seeds, kiwi, or iceburg lettuce (this is okay in small, occasional amounts, but too much can cause diarrhea.)

Examples of "good" fruits/vegetables/greens are:

Apples, bananas, beans, broccoli, carrots, cabbage, clover, cauliflower, celery, dandelions, cucumber (small amounts), romaine lettuce, zucchini, spinach, potatoes, green peas, squash, sweet potatoe, turnips, fresh (never canned) peaches or pears, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, grapes, fresh melon (honey dew or cantelope), kale, watercress, timothy grass, or lentils.

If you are unsure of something, it is better to stay on the safe side and not offer it! Make sure that you remove any uneaten fruits or vegetables from the cage, and check to see that they have no hoarded any, as these will rot, and can make your hamster sick!

Extra protein - Aside from the daily food mix, and fresh vegetables or fruits, many hamster owners like to offer an extra source of protein. Hamsters are naturally herbivores, so feeding meat is not necessary. There are concerns that feeding meat to hamsters will lead to cannibalism, which is not supported scientifically, however, there is no reason to feed meat as a means of extra protein, when there are so many ways to give your hamster all of the protein he/she will need. If there is a reason that you must supplement your hamster's diet with extra protein from meat, use lean, cooked (make sure that it is heated to a human-safe temperature, which is 160 degrees) meats, with all of the skin and extra fat removed. A good example is skinless, boneless, steamed chicken or turkey. Never ever feed beef, pork, veal or fish to your hamster!

Additonal, non-meat sources of extra protein for your hamster include: Wheat bread soaked in low fat or skim milk or soymilk, hard boiled or scrambled eggs (made without butter or cooking oil), mealworms (these are pretty gross, but your hamster will absolutely love them!), lentils, soybeans or soynuts, tofu, and assorted nuts (sparingly, as these are high in fat). Good examples of appropriate nuts to give are: Peanuts, walnuts, cashews, macadamia nuts, and filbert nuts. Never feed your hamster almonds, because there is a chance that you may give your hamster a bitter almond, which is high in cyanic acid, and can be deadly to a small animal.

Treats - Any of the above mentioned foods are good to give as occasional treats, but remember to use them in moderation, as your hamster will be accustomed to receiving these treats on a daily basis, and will cut down on the amount of his/her regular food mix in favor of the "treats". You can also offer these foods as occasional treats, in small amounts: Crackers like saltines (the kind with the salt-free tops), oyster crackers, wheat crackers, little pieces of wheat or other whole grain toast, commercially prepared hamster treats (make sure they do not contain high amounts of sugar or molasses), pretzels (with most of the salt scraped off) pasta (cooked or raw), pumpkin seeds, pine nuts, low sugar or sugar free breakfast cereals, low sugar or sugar free yogurt, coconut flakes (with no sugar added) popcorn (with no butter or salt), raisins, tiny bits of mild cheese such as cheddar or american or mozarella, or pieces or tortilla shells or pita bread.

Handling and Taming Your Hamster:

Most hamsters do not get along with other hamsters, but they get along great with people! The first rule in making sure your hamster will trust you and learn to be comfortable with you, is to build up trust with your hamster from day one, and keep the hamster's stress level to a minimum. For the first 2 days your hamster is in his/her new environment, do not attempt to pick the hamster up, and let him/her acclimate to their new surroundings. This will ensure that the first time you attempt to hold and pet your hamster, that he/she will not be at a high stress level.

The Proper Way to Tame your Hamster -

The first and foremost important rule is that you should never, ever startle or wake your hamster up when he/she is sleeping. The hamster will probably react by getting defensive, which can mean that they will roll over onto their backs and flail their legs and arms around, or bite. Hamster bites can be very painful, as they have very sharp teeth, and this is their only natural method of defense. Subsequently, your hamster will associate the scent of you to fear, which is not a good way to start off.

First, make sure that your hamster is awake, make noise with the water bottle, or rustle the bedding, and give the hamster time to smell you, while they cannot reach you. Make sure you have clean hands, as your hamster might smell the last thing you ate and think you are giving him/her a treat. Hamsters have very poor eyesight, and rely mainly on their sense of smell. Once you have established that your hamster is awake, and is okay with your presence, slowly stroke the hamster with one finger on the top of his/her head or back. Your hamster will react by sniffing your finger. Never jerk your hand away quickly, as this will startle your hamster. Let your hamster sniff you until they are done.

After your hamster is used to your scent, you can try to pick them up by a few different methods: You can lower your hand to the cage floor, and allow your hamster to walk on your hand and slowly raise him/her up, or you can lure them into a cup or a scoop with a tidbit of food to slowly and gently scoop your hamster up and let them walk onto your hand from there. Only after your hamster is very used to being held by you, and is very docile while doing so, do I suggest trying to pick your hamster up directly, that is without letting him/her make all of the advances.

When you have your hamster in your hands, make sure that you cradle their lower body with your hand and hold them close to your chest so they feel secure. Sit down in closed room, like in the bathtub or your bed, to reduce the chances that they will jump or fall.

Once you have your hamster used to being held by you, you can allow them to "explore", by letting them crawl on your lap, or on your bed, or even up your shoulders (be sure that you keep a ready hand in case they start to fall). Most hamsters are very inquisitive, and will be sort of "squirmy" so put one hand in front of the other as they walk, kind of like making a never-ending staircase with your hands. Once your hamster can successfully do all of the above without getting defensive and scared, you have sucessfully hand tamed your hamster.

Remember that it takes patience, confidence is not built up in one day, so make sure that you interact with your hamster on a daily basis, so they will remain friendly with you. If your hamster is hesitant in allowing you to hold him/her, repeat the above steps slowly, not proceeding to the next step until they have mastered the previous step. Now you can move on to teaching your hamster more.

Potty or Litter Training your Hamster -

To ensure your hamster's cage is cleaner on a daily basis, you can potty train your hamster. Simply buy a hamster potty from the pet store or use a crock/bowl and place it in a corner of the cage that you think is right, or find the spot that your hamster has already begun urinating and defecating on. Ensure that the potty is big enough for the hamster to get in, turn around and get out without any difficulty. Gather a small quantity of litter that your hamster has already urinated on and place it inside his new toilet, along with a different type of "potty" litter (found in pet stores) that you may want to use. Eventually, your hamster will get the hang of using this potty or litter box, and use it on a regular basis. My long haired Syrian hamster is so conscious of not soiling his fur or non-potty areas, that he will even wake up when he is sleeping to urinate and defecate in his litter pan, and go back to sleep!

Tricks to Teach your Hamster -

The first, and most basic trick to teach your hamster is to get him/her to respond to their name. This is easy, all you have to do is use a higher pitched or sing-song voice when you call your hamster, and always have a small tidbit ready to feed, and they will soon associate the sound of you calling them with getting a treat. After a while, it is no longer necessary to offer a treat each time, but they will still come when you call them. Then you can try this "trick" out for size by calling them in your normal, or lower voice, and then by calling them with the higher pitched voice. Chances are, they will respond to the higher pitched name more than the other.

Next, an easy trick to teach, and the first real "trick" I taught my hamsters was "say please". The idea of this trick is to get the hamster to come up on his/her hind legs when offering a treat. The way to do this is to hold out to the hamster a small treat such as a sunflower seed when you call them, and hold it a bit higher, just out of their reach, and say "say please". The hamster will raise up on his/her hind legs to get the treat. If your hamster has done this successfully, allow them to take the treat. If they do not raise up, do not give them the treat. The hamster will associate the sound of you saying "say please" and raising up, with getting a treat, and will thus do this everytime. Now, my hamsters will stand up on their hind legs when I say "say please" without being offered a treat.

Teaching these tricks are not necessary, but they provide a good opportunity to create a bond with your hamster, and spend time with him/her. Tips for handling your hamster.

Basic Hamster Grooming & Health:

Grooming - Hamsters are very clean animals, and they do a wonderful job of cleaning themselves. There is no need to give your hamster a bath, as not only will it stress them out because they are aquaphobic, but it will also rinse away natural coatings of oils, which can lead to skin and fur itchiness and hair loss. Hamsters can also drown very easily if water gets in their nose or mouth, so avoid water at all costs, unless its absolutely necessary, such as to remove something from the skin or fur that accidentally got there, such as a spill, etc.

If you are still concerned about your hamster's cleanliness, you can offer the hamster a small dish of chinchilla sand (not chinchilla dust! This is too fine and can irritate your hamster's lungs) to roll around in. This will get rid of any excess oils that can cause your hamster to look dirty.

Hamsters do not need to be brushed, as they will do this themselves too, but if you have a long haired Syrian hamster, you may want to brush his/her fur gently with a soft bristled toothbrush or even a doll's brush (My Mr.Sprinkles has his own Barbie brush that he loves getting brushed with). Not only will this groom your hamster and remove any bedding that may be tangled in their fur, but it will also relax and feel good to the hamster, and is a good way to spend more time bonding with your hamster.

You should always keep your hamster's nails nice and trim, which can be very tricky with a wiggly hamster. Nail trimming is best left to the vet, but you can help trim down your hamster's nails by fixing a small square of fine grit sandpaper to your hamster's wheel.

In addition to keeping the hamster's nails trim, you should always provide your hamster a hard block of wood for gnawing or a dog biscuit to ensure that the hamster's teeth do not become over grown. See the illness section of this packet if your hamster's teeth should become overgrown.

General Health - As I mentioned before, hamsters are robust, generally healthy little animals. When hamsters are healthy, they will have clear eyes and skin and coats, which will be smooth and sheen, not ruffled or dull. The hamster should have good posture, be able to use all of his/her limbs without dragging any of them, have good, straight teeth that are not visible when the hamster's mouth isn't open. The hamster's nose should not be runny, and you should always check the hamster's bottom and droppings and urine, to make sure that the hamster's bottom is dry, and the droppings are firm, and the urine is clear with no blood. Make sure your hamster does not have any strange bumps or abcesses on his/her body or limbs. Make sure that you check your hamster for any signs of illness regularly.

Remember to find a regular vet for your hamster, that specializes in exotics. Remember, never try to diagnose and treat an illness on your own without first consulting a vet. Many vets will offer lower or reduced rates for small animals like hamsters, so shop around and find the best vet for the best price. It is also a good idea to take your hamster in for a yearly check-up, where the vet will test the hamster's urine and feces, and do a complete physical exam, and can even trim your hamster's teeth or nails for you. This is very important, even though the vet's bills will be more than you likely paid for your hamster, but as the saying goes, "If you can't afford the vet, you can't afford the pet!"

Common Hamster Illnesses:

While it would be impossible to list all of the possible illnesses that hamsters can develop, I will list the most common and basic. Make sure you seek out proper veterinary care at any signs of illness! It's better to be safe than sorry! Hamsters have a very high metabolism in addition to being small, so they can quickly deteriorate! Remember that hamsters can catch colds and flus from humans, so if you are sick, make sure that you keep handling your hamster down to a minimum, and that you thoroughly wash your hands before you handle your hamster.

Allergies - Just as humans can be allergic to pollens, dander, mold, and dust, so can hamsters! Aside from the aforementioned pine and cedar beddings, hamsters can sometimes develop an allergic reaction to other, safe beddings. In additon, hamsters are sensitive to most chemical smells such as nailpolish, hairspray, perfumes, cigarette smoke, and cleaning fluids. The signs of allergies are as follows: sneezing, wheezing, clicking noises upon breathing, runny eyes and nose, itching, flaking skin, excessive scratching, swollen skin or feet, and white flakes around the eyes and nose. If you notice any of these signs, remove anything new you may have added to the cage recently, or remove the hamster from the offending smell. If no signs of improvement occur in the next 2 days, or the hamster's condition worsens, consult a vet, as it may be an infection and not an allergy.

Bladder or Kidney Infection - One of the first and most common signs of bladder or kidney infection is excessive drinking, and subsequently, excessive urination. Sometimes the urine can have a bad odor, or contain blood, and sometimes the hamster will squeal or hunch over in pain while urinating. Weight loss is also a common symptom. The hamster may also have localized swelling at the urethra. Immediate vet attention is required, as the hamster will need an antibiotic to recover.

Cancer & Tumors - Your hamster can get tumors both on the outside of the body and inside. They may appear somewhat fleshy, or sometimes hard, and they can grow rapidly. A vet can aspirate and analyze, and even remove external tumors. Internal tumors are not often diagnosed in time for anything to be done, and the symptoms include weight loss, signs that your hamster is in pain, and general illness. It is always important to consult a vet, as they will explain to you if the tumor is treatable and benign, or if it is malignant, and what you can do for your hamster to make him/her more comfortable, which may even include humane euthanization if your hamster is in a great deal of pain.

Cage Paralysis - This is a condition which the hamster develops from being in confined quarters with non sufficent exercise, and the hamster will display this by dragging his/her hindquarters around. A simple solution for this is to give your hamster a bigger cage, and allow your hamster to get at least 20 minutes a day of exercise in an exercise ball or playpen. Some vets think that this may be caused also by diets low in vitamins D and E, so a vitamin supplement should be given. Please consult a vet as to which kind is best, as supplements that you add to the water lose their potency before the hamster can get any benefit from it, as well as grow bacteria.

Colds & Flu - As mentioned above, this can be transmitted from humans to hamsters, and the signs are sneezing, wheezing, difficult or rapid breathing, clicking noises during respiration, runny eyes and noses, higher temperatures, and lethargy. Colds and flus can quickly turn into pneumonia, which will kill the hamster, so if symptoms do not improve within 2 days, or worsen, immediately seek veterinary care. Make sure that you keep the hamster in a warm spot, free of drafts, and you may want to keep an open container of Vicks in a spot close to the cage, but out of reach of the hamster. The vet will treat this with antibiotics, and also to prevent secondary infections.

Constipation - A diet that does not include fresh fruits or vegetables is the chief cause of constipation. Sometimes constipation can be caused by the ingestion of bedding or other material, and an inadequate supply of fresh drinking water. The symptoms for a less severe case are abnormally dry droppings, and a hunched over posture or slight swelling of the abdomen. This can quickly turn into a critical case, so if after giving the hamster some fresh greens and water, and even a quarter teaspoon of fish oil, the symptoms do not improve, seek vet care immediately. If you notice that the stomach is severely swollen, or the anus is bulging, this is sign of intestinal impaction, and vet care is to be immediately sought out, and the vet may be able to save the hamster's life.

Diarrhea - Conversely, a diet that is too rich in fresh greens or fruits may cause mild diarrhea. If you notice thin or watery stools, immediately stop feeding all greens/vegetables/fruits, but make sure the hamster has access to fresh water, so he/she will not become dehydrated. If this does not clear up within a day or two seek out veterinary care immediately. Another cause of diarrhea is Wet Tail, which is caused by a bacteria, or unclean and stressful conditions. This is highly contagious, so if you suspect your hamster has wet tail syndrome, immediately isolate the hamster from all other hamsters. The symptoms are foul smelling diarrhea, which will cause a wetness around the anus and tail of the hamster, hence it's name. This illness is extremely rare in dwarf hamsters, but is common among Syrians, especially Syrians that have been kept with other hamsters. Wet tail is not the same as diarrhea, but diarrhea is the defining symptom. Death can result from dehydration within 24-48 hours, so if you suspect your hamster has wet tail, immediately remove all food from the hamster's cage, and seek out vet care. Your vet will instruct you on proper follow up medicating when you leave the office, which will include administering an antibiotic a few times a day, as well as thouroughly sterilizing the cage and all accessories your hamster has come in contact with. Your vet will also schedule a follow up visit to be sure the illness is gone.

Diabetes - While this disease is rare in Syrian hamsters, it is quickly becoming the most common illness in Dwarf hamsters. It is most commonly caused by continuous over-feeding of sugary food and treats. Diabetes can also be passed on genetically at birth, but the hamster usually will show symptoms at 7-9 months of age. The symptoms of diabetes are: excessive thirst and drinking, urine that is sweet smelling and molds very quickly, weight loss, sight loss or cataracts, low temperatures, and shaking or trembling. Vet care should immediately be sought out, even though there is no cure for diabetes. Many hamsters with diabetes can still live a full and happy life, and it is imperative to keep the hamster on a sugar-free, low fat diet, which includes a food mix with all of the corn and peas and sunflower seeds picked out, alfalfa sprouts, boiled or scrambled eggs, and potatoes. Avoid any commercially prepared treats, and any other foods that contain sugar, including fruits. Be sure to keep fresh water on hand at all times so the hamster will not dehydrate. More information on diabetes in dwarf hamsters.

Fleas & Mites - Sometimes hamsters can contract fleas and mites just like any other household pets. Symptoms include: small black bugs about the size of a pin point (mites) or the size of a period or small seed (fleas) that can be seen when you move the fur of the hamster, as well as crawling around in the bedding, and itching or flaking skin and excessive scratching. The most common cause of mites in hamsters is from the bedding, which can be avoided by sticking the bag of bedding in the freezer overnight before use. You can easily get rid of mites with a commercially prepared flea and mite spray, which contains pyrethrins. Follow the directions on the spray closely. Another effective remedy is one you make at home.

Impacted Cheek Pouches - This is caused by feeding sticky foods that get stuck inside the hamster's cheek pouches and develop infection. This can also be caused by sharp or pointed seeds. The symptoms are enlarged cheek pouches, which can expand to the hamsters chest, and sometimes watery or closed eyes, or signs that the hamster is in pain. You will need to seek out vet care, and the vet will rinse and drain the pouches and prescribe an antibiotic. Always avoid feeding sticky foods such as peanut butter, candy (which is bad for the hamster anyway), or sharp seeds.

Injuries - Sometimes your hamster can sustain injuries such as broken limbs and paws, which can be caused by runged wheels, or getting tangled in fluffy bedding or cotto. Always avoid these things. The signs your hamster has a broken or injured leg or law is obvious, they will drag it around and appear to be in pain. Your hamster can also sustain injuries from falling from heights higher than a foot, or from fights with other hamsters. If you notice any injuries that are major, always seek out vet care. Minor cuts and scrapes that the hamster is not licking and healing on its own can be treated by applying a saline solution to the wound, and if necessary, a light coating of antibiotic ointment.

Overgrown teeth - Hamsters, like all other rodents, have a continuously growing pair of upper incisors, which if the hamster is not given a block of wood or a dog biscuit to gnaw on, can sometimes grow quickly, and make it difficult to impossible for the hamster to eat, which will result in weight loss, stress, and poor health. The teeth must be trimmed by a vet or professional, but this is avoided by providing hard things for the hamster to chew on in the first place.

Strokes - These most often occur in older hamsters, but can sometimes occur in younger hamsters as well. The signs that your hamster has suffered a stroke are: loss of coordination, loss of use of one or more limbs, collapsing after using the wheel or walking, and the tendency to fall over to the side, or tilt his/her head to the side. You might have to hand feed and water your hamster for a while, so seek out vet care immediately if you think your hamster has suffered a stroke, as they can prescribe a good syringe feeding formula. The hamster will need to be kept in a quiet, warm, stress free environment. Your hamster may recover in a few days to a few weeks, but you should always remove the wheel afterward to avoid excessive excitement and possible strain or injury.

Always be vigilant in regards to your hamster's health. Most illnesses can be treated successfully if they are noticed in time, and vet care is sought out! Refer to the illness page on Hamsterific.com for more information.

Hamster Sexing, Pregnancies & Caring for Pups:

Because there are so many possibilities of genetic defects in hamsters, and so many high birth defect risks by breeding certain types of hamsters together, and because breeding hamsters and raising pups can be very difficult, I never recommend breeding hamsters unless you are a professional breeder. Also, hamsters reproduce very quickly, and go into heat often (24 hours after giving birth even!), and hamsters can have anywhere from 2-14 pups at once, which will all need separate cages, you can quickly find yourself with more hamsters than you know what to do with! It is not fair for the hamsters either, so please, unless you are a professional, do not breed your hamsters! If an accident happens, or you obtained a hamster that was pregnant already, great care must be taken to make sure that the mother and pups are healthy and stress-free, and in good hands!

The easiest way to prevent unplanned hamster pregnancies is by keeping hamsters in same sex pairs (only dwarves, as Syrians cannot be housed together, remember?). Not all pet stores are knowledgable as to how to sex hamsters, so it is always a good idea to check the sex of your hamster yourself, which is quite easy.

Sexing Your Hamster - The easiest way to sex your hamster is to do it when it is at least 5 weeks of age, because he/she will have reached sexual maturity, therefore all of the sex organs will be developed fully. You need to pick the hamster up by the nape of his/her neck (also known as 'scruffing'), or flip the hamster over onto his/her back and the legs will stretch out. Look at the underside of the hamster. The male hamster will have 2 vents (or holes, or the anus and urethra), which will have some space in between them, sometimes as much as 1/4th of an inch. Males also have a pointier bottom, and sometimes the testicles will be descended. These are very pronounced in Syrians, but with dwarves the testicles may not descend a lot, so you will have to rely on the vents. Males also will have a larger scent gland on their stomachs, which will look like a belly button, and will have a muskier odor on them, which attracts females.

Females conversely will have a more rounded bottom, and they will have 2 vents which are very close together, sometimes touching and almost appearing to be one large hole. As they get older, they will also develop nipples, and they do not have a pronounced stomach scent gland.

There is an excellent page with diagrams on sexing both Syrians and Dwarves.

Hamster Pregnancies - Hamsters go into estrus every 3 days, and the gestation period for dwarves is between 19-23 days, and for Syrians, it is shorter, at 15-18 days. The pregnant Syrian will show bulging at around 9-10 days, with dwarves not showing until roughly 14 days. The immediate signs of hamster pregnancy are, nipping, unusual territorial behavior, tiny spots of blood coming from the vagina, hoarding an extra amount of food, and building a big nest that they stay in and "guard". During this time, you must give the mother extra protein, in the form of wheat bread soaked in milk, hard boiled eggs, mealworms, or lentils. At 10 days of pregnancy, or whenever the hamster begins to show, clean the cage thouroughly, as you will need to allow the mother time to re-build her nest and de-stress before the pups come, and you will, not be able to clean the cage for another 3 weeks.

Right before the time of birth, make sure the mother has an ample supply of food and water, along with some fresh vegetables to munch. Make sure you throw any uneaten vegetables away so they will not rot.

The New Arrivals - The pups will be born eyeless and hairless, and look a lot like wiggly pink peanuts when they are born. Do not touch the pups for any reason other than an emergency until they are 2 weeks old. The mother will smell your scent, and can abandon or even cannibalize the poor pups. Keep the cage in a dark, quiet, stress-free room, make sure that there is ample fresh food and water, and do not disturb the mother. You can drop treats in the cage for the mother, who will appreciate them, and while she is eating them, take a peek inside the nest to try and count the pups, and make sure they are all alive and well.

Dwarf fathers will be an active help during the birth, but you should remove the father before the next 24 hours, as the mother will go into heat again, and could become pregnant again, which is very dangerous for the mother. Syrian hamster mothers will not want the father around at all after the birth, and she can even attack him, so make sure you separate the father right after mating, if he is in the cage, which he shouldn't be anyway!

At 2 weeks of age, drop tiny bits of cut up apple and carrots into the cage, so that the pups stay hydrated. By 2 weeks of age, they should start wandering out of the nest, and it is fun to watch mom come and round them up. They will be fully weaned by 23 days of age, and some might still suckle until they are 4 weeks old. Make sure that they have found the water bottle and know how to use it, and that it is low enough for them to reach. Enjoy the next week to watch them dig, burrow, play, scuffle, and vie for mom's attention.

At 5 weeks of age, you should have found good homes for all of the pups, and if you are going to keep them, you should have them seperated by sex and placed in separate cages. You can keep a few same sex dwarves together, but make sure that all of the Syrians are alone, as no matter how good they seem to get along, they will fight, and eventually hurt or kill one another.

Links and Other Helpful Information:

I hope you found this packet to be informative and helpful. If you have any other questions that you did not find in this packet, the following links should help, and you can also email me at evilgrrl666[at]aol.com:

• Hamsterific!
• Top Hamster Care Books
• Ask the vet

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