Pet Info Packets :: Sugar Glider Informational Packet

First things first: I am not an expert

I am a college student and pet owner who happens to be very interested in research. I read every scrap of information I can lay my hands on, and I watch and learn from my animals.

That said, I present to you the information in this website as the results of my extensive exploration of all things sugar glider - the online community, long-time owners, nutritionists and research scientists.

I want the best for my animals and will never publish advice here that I do not adhere to in my own pet-keeping. I will not present any information here that can not be supported with research evidence or citations from published works. To strengthen my claims, I have the evidence of healthy, happy animals. If you disagree with any stated facts on this website, please feel free to contact me and present a contrasting opinion (preferably supported by empirical data). I am always open to new ideas and developments when it comes to raising, keeping and breeding exotic pets.

Meet Petaurus breviceps:

Physiology

Sugar Gliders are members of the family Petauridae, which comprises striped possums, Leadbeater's possums, and wristwinged gliders. Within the genus Petaurus there are seven species, and one of those is the sugar glider, Petaurus breviceps. The name means, literally, 'short-headed rope dancer'. The sugar glider is the smallest and the most populous member. They're aboreal, which means they spend pretty much all of their lives in the treetops. They're also volant, which means they're capable of flight. Gliders are nocturnal, sleeping during the day and hunting and foraging at night.

The standard color of sugar gliders is a soft, charcoal grey, with a black stripe that extends from nose to lower back. The underbelly, chest, and throat are cream to white, and the eyes are ringed by black fur that extends around the ears. They have a prehensile tail that's as long or longer than the head and body length combined. The gliding membrane, called a patagium, extends from the outside of the front paws to the outside of the feet. This membrane enables them to glide up to 150 feet! Each paw has five digits, just like a human. All of these digits are clawed except for the big toe on each foot. The second and third digits on each back paw are fused together and form a nifty grooming comb.

Sugar gliders have many scent glands used for marking. The main scent glands are the frontal (forehead), the sternal (chest), and the paracloacal (alongside the cloaca). This is why males develop a 'bald patch' - the hair atop the frontal scent gland gets slick with oil and makes it appear as though the hair is thin. Scent marking is used to mark specific trees in a territory and also members of a family group. Typically, the dominant male marks the other members in the group with its scent - those not marked are attacked. A male will mark the members of his colony by rubbing his forehead under another glider's chin. In the wild, sugar gliders are gregarious and live in groups of up to seven animals, with a male to female ratio of 3:4. Usually only one dominant male breeds, and all females reproduce. In the wild, male gliders live for about 5 years, and females live for 7. In captivity, however, gliders have survived to see 15!

The Sexes

Some people find it tricky to distinguish between the sexes when gliders are younger, but the differences are quite obvious once sexual maturity is reached. Males have what has been nicknamed a "pompom" - it's actually the scrotum. Once they mature, adult males also develop the afore-mentioned 'bald spot'. Females have an abdominal pouch with a vertical opening (not horizontal, like a kangaroo). Gliders have a 'cloaca', through which they urinate, defecate and give birth.

Reproduction

Sugar glider reproduction is a mind-boggling thing, as it is with most marsupials. Males have a bifurcated penis, enabling one male to fertilize a female's bisected uterus. This leads to a range of strange abilities, including the possibility that a female has two joeys of different ages developing within the womb concurrently. The pouch contains four teats, though gliders usually give birth to twins or singles. There are rare cases of triplets, but it is rare that all three joeys survive to reach adulthood.

After a 16-day gestation period, the female will give birth to her tiny babies. As with all marsupials, gliders have a very short gestation period, followed by a much longer development within the pouch. For this reason, glider joeys weigh less than .19g when born and are only 5mm in length! For comparison, a penny weighs about 3g. The newborn joey then crawls up the female's stomach and into the pouch, where it attaches to a teat. It develops there for 60-70 days.

Growth and Development of Joeys
Age(Days since birth)	Weight (g)	Weight (oz)	Development
1	0.2	0.007	Mouth and forelimbs most visible/discernible features
20	0.8	0.028	Ears free from head, papillae of mystacial vibrissae (whiskers) visible
35	2	0.07	Mystacial vibrissae erupt, ears pigmented
40	3	0.105	Pigment on shoulders begins to appear, eye slits present
60	12	0.421	Detaching from teat, fur emerges, dorsal stripe develops
70	20	0.702	Eyes open, fully furred, left alone in nest
80	35	1.229	Fur lengthens
90	44	1.545
100	54	1.897	Emerging from nest, starts eating solids
130	78	2.74	Weaned

After 60-70 days in the pouch, the joey will begin to appear, bit by bit. Most owners see tails or paws hanging out of the pouch for several days before the joey comes out in its entirety. The joeys are still only sparsely furred and their eyes are closed - they will open after another 10 days. For the next 8-10 weeks, both the female and male will carry the joeys on their backs and teach them vital socialization and survival skills. At 8 weeks, most joeys are no longer nursing and are eating solid food.

Life In The Wild:

In the wild, sugar gliders eat arthropods, Acacia species gum, Eucalyptus species phloem sap, nectar and pollen, manna (sap oozing from wounds on trees), and honeydew (produced by sap-sucking insects). They chew large holes in the bark of eucalyptus trees to get at the sap and then defend the trees from other sugar-glider groups.

Predators in the wild include owls, foxes, cats, kookaburras, and lace monitors. Feral cats are a considerable menace in Australia, and a lot of work is being done to control the population. This is a very good reason to spay/neuter your family pet! Feral cats are hurting bird and small animal populations across the country, and the problem is not limited just to Australia.

Wild sugar gliders normally spend the day in leafy nests constructed in tree hollows. Because of their ability to glide such long distances, gliders should never need to walk on the ground. Gliders have avascular retinae, with only a small residual tuft of fluoresceinimpermeable vessels projecting from the optic disk into the vitreous - this is very fancy language that tells us gliders have superior night vision!

Gliders As Pets:

Accomodations

To begin, sugar gliders are very social creatures. A glider kept alone will waste away from loneliness unless you have several hours every night to spend playing with him. Even then, you may not meet his needs. It is best to adopt at least 2 gliders together so that they have each other for comfort and play.

To keep a glider safe and healthy, you'll need a large cage. Gliders are incredibly active pets and need a lot of space to jump and glide. The very minimum height for a cage for one glider is 3ft, though I would recommend at least 5ft. Glider University recommends a cage at least 6ft in height and width and 4ft in depth for two gliders, though this estimate seems to fall on the heavy side. A slightly smaller cage will be fine if you can let your gliders out to play for a few hours each night. To see our favorite cage supplies and vendors, see our Links and Resources section.

A note on minimum cage size: In my opinion, no pet should have "the minimum". I realize that all of us are bound by our income, but I believe you should buy the biggest cage you can afford. If you don't have the money to house your glider, you might want to consider waiting a little while. After all, doesn't your pet deserve the best you have to offer?

The gaps in the wire of your cage should not be larger than 1/2" x 1", perhaps even smaller if you plan on breeding, as joeys are quite the little escape artists! Make sure that your cage uses PVC- or vinyl-coated wire. Uncovered galvanized wire can cause heavy metal poisoning if your gliders lick the surface, which they are bound to do at some point. Make sure that the wire has no sharp edges.

It may be cheaper for you to build a cage. There are several websites out there that have directions for different types of cages.

You'll need lots of toys to keep your gliders entertained, and I recommend that you rotate the toys on a fairly regular basis in order to prevent your pets from becoming bored. One of the best toys to have is some kind of SPCA-approved wheel - this means a wheel with a solid running surface, not wire bars, as your glider's tail and paws could get caught and be seriously injured. The most popular wheels are the Whodent Wheel and the Stealth Wheel, which is reported to be all but silent (silence is a virtue when you keep nocturnal pets, I assure you!). The benefit of a Whodent Wheel is that several suppliers make abrasive strips that slip over the running surface and gently dull your glider's prickly claws. Many people find this a much more pratical alternative to nail-clipping. At GliderCentral, you can find instructions for building your own StealthWheel, which may prove to be more economical for those of you who are handy with nuts and bolts. For the less construction-inclined, check out our Links and Resources section for some popular vendors.

As for toys, check the small rodent and bird sections of your local pet store. A lot of the toys for these other animals are entertaining for gliders. Anything that moves when touched, for example, will ignite your pet's prey drive. You think gliders are sweet and cuddly? Watch them maul a feather teaser to death! There's nothing better than watching your pet do what comes naturally, so make sure you have lots of things to climb, pounce on and hide in.

You'll also need several cage pouches for your gliders to sleep in. Some people choose to use nesting boxes, but I find that fleece pouches are much easier to keep clean. I also like pouches because it's easy to pick up the gliders during the day and transfer them to a bonding pouch. Some pouches are also designed to keep more light out and insulate the gliders from loud noises. Gliders like to change their sleeping place from time to time, so it's good to offer several pouches in different locations in your cage. It's also best to place these pouches near the cage top, as gliders prefer to sleep and eat up high.

Last, but definitely not least, make sure that none of the clips on your toys, pouches and cage accessories are made of zinc. Zinc will poison your gliders! Make sure that any metal fixtures are nickel-plated or made of some other metal, like brass or stainless steel.

Diet and Nutrition

The right diet is absolutely crucial to keeping a happy and healthy glider. As SunCoast's Dr. C says, "It's not hard, just the most important thing to do". Before I begin, I will say this: there are many different opinions about the best diet to feed. I do not claim to know which of these, if any, are better than others. I am simply reporting my own research and the experiences of very knowledgeable and reputable members of the online sugar glider community.

I choose to feed my gliders a diet put together by Ernest at The GlidErnest, (Tillie's birthplace). I like his diet because it includes ingredients found in a wild glider's diet, like pollen and Acacia gum, while still maintaining an excellent Ca:P (that's Calcium to Phosphorous) ratio and providing all the protein a breeding colony needs. There are MANY diets out there, though. Here's a few links to the most popular and best proven:

Judie's BML
SunCoast Diet
Priscilla Price's Diet

All glider diets should include some fruits and vegetables, preferably those with a high Ca:P ratio. This ratio is also important for green iguanas and other species, so you can view The Iguana Den's information for fruits and vegetables. You can also search the USDA National Nutrient Database for the contents of specific foods. This is good for keeping track of exactly what's going into your glider's body. Never feed canned fruits or vegetables - only fresh.

Wild gliders eat a lot of insects during the summer months and rely primarily on plant sap and pollen during the winter, when insects are less abundant. This causes a substantial difference in the amount of protein a glider consumes in each season, which some researchers believe may lead to seasonal reproduction. Regardless, your glider will love you forever if you offer him mealworms and crickets as part of his diet. Feeding insects comes with some guidelines, though. For starters, mealworms and waxworms are very high in fat, so feed these larvae sparingly. In addition, make sure that you "gutload" your insects before you feed them to your gliders. Commercial gutloads are available at many of the stores listed on the Links and Resources page. They contain a lot of extra calcium and other vitamins that will benefit your glider's health. Though most of them are designed for feeder crickets for reptiles, they'll work just fine for mealworms. Some people claim that commercial gutload mixtures are primarily cheap material and are grossly overpriced, and therefore these people choose to mix their own gutload. I have no experience with this, however, so will not offer my advice. I've never had any troubles with the Fluker's mixtures I use.

I suggest offering your gliders some GliderAde or Sugar Glider Nectar two to three times a week. These powdered nectars should be mixed with the recommended amount of fresh water. They contain high levels of carbohydrates and are best suited to young, old, sick or breeding gliders. It's basically a cross between Gatorade and Pedialyte, but suited to your glider's metabolic needs. If you do choose to offer this mix to your glider, make sure you also provide fresh water - you should never deprive your pet of a fresh water source, no matter what other liquids you're offering. You can also sprinkle the dry powder on your glider's BML or dry food as an encouragement for picky eaters.

You should always use a covered dish and a water bottle to meet your glider's nutritional needs. When a glider needs to go, he goes, and he may not always watch where he poops. Open dishes can become quickly soiled. Try to place your feeding dishes as high as possible. This should help you avoid waste falling into the dishes, and will also make your gliders feel safer. Make sure you wash your dishes often - it's a good idea to keep several spares so you're never short of clean ones.

Please, I implore you, do not feed cat food to your gliders. Apart from the absolutely disgusting things that go into commercial pet foods, the simple truth of the matter is that cat food is for cats. Cats are carnivores and have dietary requirements far, far different to those of an omnivorous glider. While cat food is cheap and available, it is not appropriate for an exotic animal. If you want to own an exotic pet, you need to be prepared to spend time every night preparing a wholesome diet. If you want to empty a can into a bowl and put it on the floor, get a cat! (Actually, don't even do that - read Ann Martin's book, Food Pets Die For, and then decide if you still want to feed commercial pet food.)

Interaction

When you adopt a glider, it's very important to begin the bonding process and continue interacting with your glider and gaining her trust throughout her lifetime. Begin by sleeping in an old t-shirt for a few nights. After it's good and smelly (nobody said this was a dainty process!), you can do one of two things. You can either drape the shirt over your glider's cage for a few nights, or cut out swatches from the t-shirt and use them as blankets for your cage pouches (be careful of loose threads, though). Let your new pet settle into his new home for a day or three

Never, ever use negative reinforcement with your glider. The core of bonding with your glider is earning his trust. Yelling, hitting and/or tapping your glider harshly will only negate any progress you have made. Using gloves will mask your smell and make the bonding process go more slowly, but I do admit that it may be necessary, especially in cases of abused or neglected gliders that you may rescue. It will take TIME and PATIENCE to bond effectively with your new pet. Don't give up! Trust me, it's worth it in the end.

Try not to reach blindly into the pouch - fingers are scary! Your baby might make a crabby, grumpy noise and/or lunge for your hand. Try to be patient and understand how scary it is to be in a new home where all the sights, smells and sounds are foreign. Gliders won't enjoy being held too tightly - the best option is to let them find a comfortable spot on you. Always handle your glider with a flat palm - don't grab or squeeze him! Holding too tight will make your pet panic and try to get away, and he might get hurt in his struggle.

As for biting, there's no easy solution. My best advice is: Take the Bite. Just put up with it. If you quickly snatch your hand back or stop what you're doing, your glider will learn that biting is the way to get what he wants. Some people use Bitter Apple or other foul-tasting sprays on their hands, but I believe that this might mask your personal smell and hinder the bonding process more than help. Besides, I hear some gliders develop a taste for the apple-flavored sprays! If your glider does break the skin, make sure you wash out the wound with some sort of antiseptic soap or spray. You don't want to get an infection!

The best time to bond with your glider is during the day. Nighttime is playtime, and your glider will have little interest in being held. Invest in a bonding pouch of some sort (I recommend the Sissy Pouch). This way, you can carry your sleeping baby around during the day so he gets used to the tone of your voice and the way you smell.

It is my personal belief that leashing your glider can be very dangerous. Most leashes are designed to fit around the neck and torso. This may work on other animals, but your glider has a patagium - the gliding membrane that stretches from forefoot to hindfoot. Your glider's instinct is to jump and glide, and restraining him with a leash could cause him to fall and hurt himself. If you don't trust your glider to stay on your person when you venture outside, then don't take him outside! It is so much better to be safe than sorry.

The best time to see your glider doing what gliders do best is at night, when our little furry friends come out to play. There's lots of fun out-of-cage toys you can try - I recommend feather teasers, like you might use for a kitten. Gliders instinctively pounce prey-like objects, and they will merrily destroy a wiggling feather toy if you let them. I also recommend various large play gyms with fun, moving, irresistable toys. Your gliders will also enjoy a romp through your houseplants, but be CAREFUL. Many plants are toxic to gliders. You can find a comprehensive list of safe plants here and toxic plants here. You may also want to take heed: In the wild, gliders will strip leaves from branches and carry them back to line their nest. They will do the same thing to your houseplants! You may want to rotate your selection of playtime plants to minimize the damage. Otherwise, keep your gliders away from your prize butterfly bush!

If you let your gliders roam around the room, you will need to Glider-Proof it first! This is pretty much the same as child-proofing, but for even smaller hands. If you let your glider roam around your bedroom, bathroom or any other room, you'll need to make sure it's safe.

Electrical Outlets/Cords:
Little plugs are available to keep baby fingers out of outlets. Bind your electrical cords together using a strip of ribbon or velcro, for example. Gliders can't be trusted not to chew on a cord or lick an outlet, so take all necessary precautions to avoid a tragedy. Bourbon uses Jalapeno juice to keep gliders away from electrical cords.

Toilets:
Gliders can not swim and will drown if they fall into the water. If you play with your pet in the bathroom, make sure that the toilet lid is always down. Some savvy glider owners actually have ladders in their toilet bowls, just in case misfortune strikes. Also make sure that the sink and bathtub are empty.

Knick-knacks:
Research has shown that the gliding process is not as graceful nor as gentle as it looks. When gliders come in for a landing, the impact is considerable. Now imagine a glider crash-landing into the fine bone china Grandma left you.. Did you wince? I did. Make sure that your valuables and breakables are put away before your gliders come out to play. There's no such thing as a valuable figurine in the bush, and gliders have no consideration for your sentimental collectibles!

Candles and Heaters:
This one's pretty simple. Fire = big no-no. Anything your glider could burn himself on needs to be put away. I would say "put out of reach", but there's very little that a determined glider won't get to.

Stackables:
Books, CDs, makeup, all of these and more can be assembled into a pile that seems sturdy enough. Introduce a bouncing glider, though, and the situation can take a turn for the worse. Gliders can be terminally curious! Remove anything that could possible fall on and injure your glider. Toppling CDs and other light objects will frighten your glider, who may then do something dangerous, like leap blindly away from the commotion. A heavy book could easily crush your pet.

Potent Potables:
Remove anything that could harm your glider should he stick his curious tongue in it. Gliders are notorious for dividing the world into two categories: "Stuff I can eat" and "Stuff I can't eat, but will lick anyway"! Make sure any cleaning supplies are tucked out of harm's way.

This is just a short list of things to consider. When it comes to glider-proofing, use common sense and err on the side of caution. Playtime should be a fun experience for all involved, not a nerve-wracking hang-glide over the pits of hell.

Wellness and Health:

Gliders are fairly easy to keep healthy if you have them on the right diet and give them enough space to live and play in. However, sometimes illness just happens.

Before you invest in a glider, check your local vets and see if any of them have any experience with these animals. As gliders are only just gaining popularity as pets in America, many vets won't know how to treat them. Any vet will do in a pinch, of course, but it's best to find a vet ahead of time who can offer you in-depth care.

Wellness Exams:

When you first bring your glider home, and at regular intervals thereafter, I suggest that you take him in for a wellness exam. This is just like going in for a checkup, but without the lollipop afterwards. Oh, and gliders don't get to pick out a sticker, either.

First, your vet will inspect your glider externally. She'll check his eyes, nose and ears, which are always good places to detect illness. She'll also weigh him and check his fur for any bald patches. Your vet should also inspect your glider's gums, teeth, feet and claws for any warning signs of ill health.

A fecal smear and float will also be done. Technicians know that the fecal float can be used to identify many internal parasites (i.e., roundworms and hookworms), and most parasites are readily identified by any number of in-house diagnostic microscopic methods. This is very important, because these parasites operate inside your glider and you may not see the effects until it's too late. This is the entire purpose of a wellness check - your vet is trained to spot the warning signs of an illness at the earliest stages and can help you treat your pet before it reaches critical condition.

A Note on Vet Clinics:
Small clinics may not have the resources available to do a fecal float. Make sure that your clinic has a lab available for their use, otherwise your checkup will be incomplete.

If your vet suggests "floating" (trimming) your glider's teeth, you should look for a new vet. Gliders are not rodents, and their teeth do not continue to grow over their lifespan. Trimming their teeth is outdated and inhumane.

Emergency Care:

If your glider is in critical condition, you need to get to the clinic immediately. There, your vet should perform a fecal float, smear, and cytology. If the glider has symptoms of Hind Leg Paralysis (HLP), you will also need X-rays. If you're keeping your glider on a proven diet and you see symptoms of HLP, then there may be some sort of internal parasite at work.

If your glider is dehydrated, the vet may administer subcutaneous (sub-q) fluids. The word "subcutaneous" means "under the skin". The fluids are injected between a layer of loose skin and the body. Sub-q fluids may only be given with a vet's permission. Your glider may need one or more injections per day, which can be expensive if you need to go into the clinic each time. See if your vet can teach you to administer the fluids at home - this will save you a lot of time and money.

If your glider is showing signs of a calcium deficiency, the vet may give her calcionate syrup. This is a calcium supplement that will combat HLP. If your glider is on a proven diet and is getting a proper amount of calcium yet still develops HLP, she should also be given antibacterial or antiprotozoan medications. Sub-q fluids are also useful in this case.

When your glider is sick, she'll need all the love and attention you would give to a sick child. Keep her warm by providing some extra pouch blankets or by keeping her in your shirt. You can also use a small travel aquarium. Place the aquarium atop a heating pad and put your glider and her pouch inside. Check on her frequently to make sure that she's not too hot or cold and that she has plenty of water available.

Your relationship with your vet is of utmost importance. Your vet depends on you for knowledge about your glider's individual lifestyle, and you depend on your vet for the level of care that you can not supply. This is the only way to offer your glider the best care available.

Neutering:

Yes, the big snip can be performed on male gliders! Neutering is definitely an option if you'd like to house males and females together without having them reproduce. You should not spay your females, though - the operation is far more complicated and the risk far too high.

Though there are many methods to alter a male, most vets will administer Isoflorin to anesthetize your pet and then make a small incision through which the testicals are removed. Then it's just a quick tie and snip, leaving the scrotum intact. No glue or stitches are necessary.

Discuss pain management with your vet. A glider in pain will be very, very stressed, which could lead to serious complications. Talk to your vet about administering Torb either orally or by injection every three to four hours. From age eight weeks to four months, administer the painkiller for twenty-four hours after surgery. For males over four months, administer the painkiller for thirty-six hours after surgery.

Make sure you have a phone number for the clinic in case you have any questions or concerns once you get home. Your vet should be very willing to offer you any assisstance you may need - if not, find a more involved vet!

F.A.Q.

What exactly do they eat? Anything extremely toxic to them that should be pointed out straight off?

There's a lot of discussion about the best diet for a captive glider, but I'll tell you about what I feed. I choose to feed my gliders a diet put together by Ernest at The GlidErnest. It's a more naturalistic variant of another diet, nicknamed 'BML', which is "Bourbon's Modified Leadbeaters" (there's such thing as a leadbeater possum, and the diet, as the name suggests, is derived from the diet zoos use for the leadbeaters) and you can find the recipe here. There's lots of vitamin/mineral powders available online, so it's just up to you to use a selection of fresh fruits (some people use veggies, too, though I'm yet to try) and a side-order of a protein source. Most people use mealworms (mealies) for protein. Your gliders will love you forever if you give them mealworms. Mine will happily chow down on a mealie while holding a couple in each fist!

As for 'extremely toxic', I'm not aware of anything you need to be concerned about. There IS a list of toxic plants and trees, though, should you want to include some branches in your cage set-up.

Anyhoo, there's a bunch of different camps when it comes to feeding your gliders, and I'd be happy to provide you with a few links if you want to know more. Contact me if you'd like a lengthier opinion!

Any specific bedding required? I'm aware pine and cedar are quite toxic over long periods of time to rats and other small animals, so I assume the oils and scents might have the same effect on a glider's lungs.

You're right on pine and cedar - it causes severe respiratory problems in gliders and should never be used. I used newspaper, but my drop-tray is deep enough that my gliders can't chew it - the inks can be dangerous. Some people swear by fleece fabric, because it's glider-safe and can be thrown in the wash when it gets too soiled. Others use odor-absorbing bedding from pet stores. The term 'bedding' is kinda misleading, though, as your gliders won't be sleeping in it. They sleep in hanging pouches or nesting boxes that are ideally located at the top of their enclosure. They prefer to be up high for eating and sleeping.

How long do they live on average, and what is a rough estimate of how much regular breeders sell their pet-quality gliders for?

In the wild, males typically live five years, and females seven. In captivity, however, some gliders will reach 15! Pricing will depend on where you're located, as the markets are different - gliders are quite popular in the south and there's many breeders, so that drives the price down. You're looking at $150 for a standard grey joey from a reputable breeder. As with most, if not all, animals, pet stores are shady and regularly keep their animals in ridiculous and inhumane conditions. Gliders make crappy pet store stock, because they're nocturnal! Stores often keep them in tiny cages under bright lights.

Are they better alone, in pairs, or in larger groups?

Wild gliders live in communities of about 7, with a ratio of three males to four females. Only one male has breeding privelages, and all females reproduce. In captivity, you're welcome to keep as many gliders as you have room for! The more the merrier, I feel, because the social heirarchy has been proven to really effect-- okay, you probably don't want to hear about the research papers I've been reading. But anyway, never keep a glider alone unless you have hours of free time to play with him/her! Gliders are very social animals, and they will fare so much better if they have a little friend to snuggle up with. Or two, as is the case with my trio. They'll just waste away if they're lonely and socially deprived. Besides, it's so much fun to watch the way they interact with each other!

Are neutered males less expensive than intact ones, are they more friendly, and can you buy them neutered?

Neutered males aren't usually less expensive than intact ones, no. They're not necessarily more friendly - if you have two intact males and no females, your males would be just as loving as neutered males. It's the presence of the females that makes them competitive and territorial, you know? But that's not to say that an intact male kept with females would be unfriendly towards humans - he's just more likely to be close to the girls, sorta preoccupied with the possibility of sweet, sweet glider booty. Eheh.

You can definitely buy your males already neutered - it depends where you go. There's usually an extra fee built into their cost to cover the neutering. For me, it'd be $80 - that's what my local vet charges. She also requires a $20 pre-surgery exam, but I'd let that slide for free, considering I'll probably get vet checks on all my joeys anyway. However, $80 is definitely not the standard fee - it varies hugely, depending on your area and your vet.

How much do gliders smell, in terms of animal scent? Something along the lines of how hamsters and gerbils have that 'small furry animal' smell -- do gliders possess the same?

I think you'd get a very wide range of answers to this, because nobody can really agree. My mother thinks they stink, but she also says this mostly when she's pissed off anyway, so I wouldn't go believing her.

If you have girls, there'd be no smell - definitely not that of a rodent. With boys, intact males do have a strong scent, because that's how they mark their family members and identify friend from foe. If you have your male(s) neutered, though, they don't produce that scent and will be just as clean as your females.

Smell can also vary depending on diet. If you were to keep gliders, minimize the smell by taking their food dishes out of the cage every morning and not letting any of their food sit out. There's a great product called 'Elimina' that you actually spray directly on their food. It works internally to break down the smell from feces/urine. I don't use it myself (it hasn't been appropriately test on breeding females), but I do know a number of people who are very, very happy with their results.

On top of that, you can use different sorts of bedding/litter that fight odors, and a quick spray of Lysol air purifier around their cage chases any bad smells away.

So! With all that said, I will actually provide a concise answer to your question: In my opinion, female and neutered male gliders do not smell anywhere near as bad as mice, gerbils, hamsters and other common pets. Beyond that, any odor control you want is up to you - you can choose from a bunch of products out there and end up with virtually odor-free pets. Better than a dog - and that's a LOT coming from me, she who covets the canines.

Breeders:

Breeders:
To have your name added to this list, drop me an email and we can chat! Preference given to those in the northern areas of the country, as breeders are quite common in the south.

To and Fro Gliders
Tulsa, OK
In my opinion, Sheila is the most well-known of the breeders who currently produce the rarest colors (leucistic, albino, etc.). Shipping available.

Pet Sugar Gliders
Dorset, OH
Jennifer Bender has beautiful, healthy joeys and will drive a reasonable distance to facilitate pick-ups. She also has the most adorable hedgehog babies!

The GlidErnest
Grand Rapids, MI
Ernest owns all kinds of nifty animals and is the breeder I bought my lovely Tillie from. She is the sweetest, friendliest little girl I could ask for. Ern's joeys are adorable, sweet, healthy and incredibly tame, and his original diet is awesome. I can't say enough about this guy. Mad love for Ern!

Gliders, Anonymous
Akron, OH
Another great breeder in the northern half of the US! GA has some of the rarer glider colors, along with some accessories and supplies for owners, both new and old.

Suppliers and Vendors:

SunCoast Gliders
Jacksonville, FL
SunCoast has great cages and other supplies for reasonable prices. I'm especially fond of their $5 shipping rate - you can get a massive, massive cage shipped to your door for only $5. Shipping for items this size would be extremely expensive anywhere else. They also have a very knowledgeable vet on-hand and publish a monthly newsletter filled with all sorts of good info.

SugaRae's Attic
Here, you can find the incredibly quiet StealthWheel, which runs on ballbearings that promise you a solid night of sleep! You can also buy a kit to make your own wheel for slightly less than the assembled product.

Glider Daydreams
Karin's pouches are nothing but breathtaking. When my order arrived, it was packaged so beautifully that it could easily have been a gift! Karin clearly takes a lot of pride in her work and you can be sure that you will love whatever you order for your pets.

Sweet and Sour Sugar Gliders
The creator of the original Sissy Pouch, a very cute bonding accessory. You can also find several very cool toys here, along with other types of pouches.

GliderFood.com and Exotic Nutrition
I believe these two are actually the same company - correct me if I'm wrong. Both offer excellent staple diets, and I highly recommend their mealworms. Actually, my gliders recommend the mealworms. Personally, I'm not much of a fan of insects.. But anyway, these websites also stock Acacia gum and bee pollen powders, which are vital ingredients in both the glider's wild diet and Ern's captive glider diet. A lot of my paycheck goes here.

Informational Links And Sources:

GliderCENTRAL

Marsupial Nutrition, Ian Hume
Cambridge University Press, 1999. Cambridge, UK.

Ruth's Sugar Glider Page (home of the BML diet)

My Merchandise:

For You: Visit our CafePress store to see our custom-designed clothing for those with 'glideritis'!

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